《Chin 海滩到熊海滩》
文/和平岛
十公里的步道
被揉出十一个大V字
山峰与峡谷
这就是温带雨林，魅惑和力量——
参天的针叶林
用盘根错节
把厚实又松软的腐植层
硬锁
在坡峰与坡谷之间
避不开——
徒步者
必须穿行在
来不及清理的铁杉，断裂的树干与枝桠
和稠密的萨拉尔灌木层
只有下到海滩
才能看到错乱的砾石，鹅卵
剥露的基岩
最出挑的是熊海滩的石头
蘑菇——
修长的灰白色砾砂岩脖颈
奋力顶着
暗绿色玄武岩
五千万年老
一硕大脑袋
站在十二阶的大浪与海风中
千年不倒
只有我，拿视线
死死抓住岬角上
一支 trillium 延龄草
它头顶
三片叶、三片萼、三瓣花
在嫩绿与雪白之间
偷片刻的喘气
脚掌下，是
融冰与海浪
留下
累累的鹅卵石
从波峰
一直铺到谷底
你瞧，
一行人
学十只鸥鸟
瘫坐在鹅卵石滩头
淋太阳
吹海风
看一艘远洋货轮
用尽一个小时
还离太平洋出海口
一万八千
里
From Chin Beach to Bear Beach
A ten-kilometer trail
crumpled into eleven great V-shapes.
Peaks and canyons—
this is the temperate rainforest, its glamour and its might.
The towering conifers,
with their knotted, twisting roots,
interlock and firmly lock
the thick, soft layer of humus
between the crests and valleys of the slopes.
No way around it—
the hikers
must hack through
the fallen hemlocks left uncleared, the shattered trunks and branches,
and the dense, suffocating thicket of salal.
Only by dropping to the beach
can one see the chaotic shingles, the cobbles,
and the stripped, exposed bedrock.
The most striking of all is the stone of Bear Beach:
the Hoodoo Mushroom—
its slender neck of grey-white conglomeratic sandstone
straining to hoist
the dark-green basalt,
fifty million years old,
a massive skull.
Standing amidst the twelve-scale roaring waves and sea winds,
unfallen through millennia.
Only I, with my gaze,
seize death-tight upon the headland
a single Trillium—
crowning itself
with three leaves, three sepals, three petals,
between the tender green and snow-white,
stealing a momentary breath.
Beneath the soles of our feet,
the melting ice and ocean waves
have left
countless, heavy cobblestones,
paved all the way from the crest of the swells
down to the bottom of the troughs.
Look there,
a line of humans
mimicking ten seagulls,
collapsed and sprawling on the cobblestone shore,
drenched in the sun,
buffeted by the sea breeze.
Watching an ocean freighter
exhaust a whole hour
only to find itself still from the mouth of the Pacific
eighteen thousand
miles away.
