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湘军食府记(为应广州湘军食府东家约稿而作)
渔樵耕读
秀才


Joined: 12 Mar 2007
Posts: 116
Location: 中国湖南长沙
渔樵耕读Collection
PostPosted: 2008-07-22 01:10:41    Post subject: 湘军食府记(为应广州湘军食府东家约稿而作) Reply with quote

湘军食府记

盖湘菜之兴,始自同光。比及湘军之功,攘外安内。鼎定中华,封荫无数。涤生文弱,科班及第。是其时也,鸦片为祸,列强轰开虎门。太平军起越桂,横扫江南。立廷金陵,抗礼邦畿。为保桑梓,始募乡勇。文行武事,班列行伍,绥靖湖南。天使持节,剖符拜将,位列军机。不数年间,扫平六合,国祚中兴。天子册勋,领军机大学士者,曾侯一等,左侯二等。文韬武略,谥曰文正文襄。一时之间,湘军将领,济济朝堂,群寮共仰,天下为倚。一饮一食,一著一言,天下莫不法之。上至大夫,下至黎庶,皆风行而效仿。此故湘菜所以兴盛神州之由也!

夫湘菜之为食也,取法中庸,宏光大道,五味调和。去川菜之辛,存齐鲁之精,法苏浙之细,留闽越之醇,从南粤之鲜。辣而不过,温而不火,独具奇香,盖存湘味也。此不亦我湘人育英雄之秘法乎?

今以“湘军食府”为名,盖取湘军将领文武双全之意,成法乎其古,扬名乎其后。昔者,曾侯拜相,朝堂共仰,湘军诸将,不论文兴武成,皆列之门墙,或交称莫逆。曾侯好礼,当其鼎盛之时,冠盖云集,上至王公,下至乡绅,来往颇勤。曾侯必以殷勤款待,吩咐厨下,精烹细调,以尽其礼。曾侯之客,虽集之四方,然湘土之士,十之八九。故侯门之厨,多来自湖湘,尤以湘乡为盛。其时侯府亦不缺各地之名厨,可谓网罗天下,二者之间,切磋改进,自成湘菜侯门一脉。后曾侯殁,裁减家厨,遣送回湘,自此湘乡厨艺名胜三湘。虽而今中国,湘菜布满神州,然曾侯府中所出之正宗亦不多见。盖因侯府烹调之法,取料上乘,做工精致,火候考究,时人难得其全。当此神州又复中兴之时,物埠礼隆,复兴湘菜曾侯府中湘乡一脉之正宗,恰逢其时也!圣人云:“礼之兴,始于饮食。”不亦宜乎?

岁次戊子仲夏,长沙刘科学撰文
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黄洋界
探花


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 3301
Location: 多伦多,加拿大
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PostPosted: 2008-07-22 05:40:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

本记颇得起承转合之法,结构完整.

"去川菜之辛"的说法,似有抑此扬彼之嫌,浅见.
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渔樵耕读
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Joined: 12 Mar 2007
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Location: 中国湖南长沙
渔樵耕读Collection
PostPosted: 2008-07-25 00:23:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

也不是抑此扬彼,湖南人爱辣不喜辛,这是饮食习惯的问题!
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